[SLS] Jinshi Chen (MIT-WHOI)

“Cross surfzone transport dynamics by random breaking waves”

The transformation of breaking waves in the surfzone, including the evolution of the foamy wave roller and the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE), determines the wave-driven cross-shore mass transport, the vertical structure of the compensating return flow (undertow), and the increase in the mean water level (setup). Here, a two-phase Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) model and field observations are used to study the cross-shore transformation of the roller, turbulence, and undertow of irregular breaking waves. The models are verified with measurements collected during multiple field and lab studies on barred and unbarred bathymetry. The model outputs are used in depth-integrated and depth-resolved balances to study momentum and energy transfers during wave breaking. Observations from two vertically stacked acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs) and pressure sensors are briefly mentioned to examine the surfzone turbulence structure, directional preference, and the relation between the turbulent anisotropy, waves, and mean currents.

Sack Lunch Seminar Series —
Informal seminar series within PAOC (Program in Atmospheres, Oceans, and Climate) that focuses on more specialized topics than the PAOC Colloquium. The presentations are either given by an invited speaker or by a member of PAOC and can focus on new research or discussion of a paper of particular interest.

Contact: sacklunch-committee@mit.edu